Regulation (EU) No 1007/2011 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 27 September 2011 on textile fibre names and related labelling and marking of the fibre composition of textile products and repealing Council Directive 73/44/EEC and Directives 96/73/EC and 2008/121/EC of the European Parliament and of the Council Text with EEA relevance

CHAPTER 1 GENERAL PROVISIONS

Article 1

Subject matter

This Regulation lays down rules concerning the use of textile fibre names and related labelling and marking of fibre composition of textile products, rules concerning the labelling or marking of textile products containing non-textile parts of animal origin and rules concerning the determination of the fibre composition of textile products by quantitative analysis of binary and ternary textile fibre mixtures, with a view to improving the functioning of the internal market and to providing accurate information to consumers.

Article 2

Scope

• (a) products containing at least 80 % by weight of textile fibres;

• (b) furniture, umbrella and sunshade coverings containing at least 80 % by weight of textile components;

• (c) the textile components of:
• (i) the upper layer of multi-layer floor coverings;
• (ii) mattress coverings;
• (iii) coverings of camping goods; provided such textile components constitute at least 80 % by weight of such upper layers or coverings;

• (d) textiles incorporated in other products and forming an integral part thereof, where their composition is specified.

Article 3

Definitions

• (a) ‘textile product’ means any raw, semi-worked, worked, semi-manufactured, manufactured, semi-made-up or made-up product which is exclusively composed of textile fibres, regardless of the mixing or assembly process employed;

• (b) ‘textile fibre’ means either of the following:
• (i) a unit of matter characterised by its flexibility, fineness and high ratio of length to maximum transverse dimension, which render it suitable for textile applications;
• (ii) a flexible strip or tube, of which the apparent width does not exceed 5 mm, including strips cut from wider strips or films, produced from the substances used for the manufacture of the fibres listed in Table 2 of Annex I and suitable for textile applications;

• (c) ‘apparent width’ means the width of the strip or tube when folded, flattened, compressed or twisted, or the average width where the width is not uniform;

• (d) ‘textile component’ means a part of a textile product with an identifiable fibre content;

• (e) ‘extraneous fibres’ means fibres other than those stated on the label or marking;

• (f) ‘lining’ means a separate component used in making up garments and other products, consisting of a single layer or multiple layers of textile material held in place along one or more of the edges;

• (g) ‘labelling’ means affixing the required information to the textile product by way of attaching a label;

• (h) ‘marking’ means indicating the required information directly on the textile product by way of sewing, embroidering, printing, embossing or any other technology of application;

• (i) ‘inclusive labelling’ means the use of a single label for several textile products or components;

• (j) ‘disposable product’ means a textile product designed to be used only once or for a limited time, and the normal use of which is not intended for subsequent use for the same or a similar purpose;

• (k) ‘agreed allowance’ means the value of moisture regain to be used in the calculation of the percentage of fibre components on a clean, dry mass basis, with adjustment by conventional factors.

Article 4

General requirement on the making available on the market of textile products

Textile products shall only be made available on the market provided that such products are labelled, marked or accompanied with commercial documents in compliance with this Regulation.

CHAPTER 2 TEXTILE FIBRE NAMES AND RELATED LABELLING AND MARKING REQUIREMENTS

Article 5

Textile fibre names

The names listed in Annex I shall not be used for other fibres, whether on their own or as a root or as an adjective.

The term ‘silk’ shall not be used to indicate the shape or particular presentation in continuous filament yarn of textile fibres.

Article 6

Applications for new textile fibre names

Any manufacturer or any person acting on a manufacturer's behalf may apply to the Commission to add a new textile fibre name to the list set out in Annex I.

The application shall include a technical file compiled in accordance with Annex II.

Article 7

Pure textile products

Those or similar terms shall not be used for other textile products.

A textile product which has undergone a carding process may also be treated as exclusively composed of the same fibre if it contains no more than 5 % by weight of extraneous fibres, provided this quantity is justified as being technically unavoidable in good manufacturing practice and is not added as a matter of routine.

Article 8

Fleece wool or virgin wool products

• (a) all the wool contained in that mixture satisfies the requirements defined in paragraph 1;

• (b) such wool accounts for not less than 25 % of the total weight of the mixture;

• (c) in the case of a scribbled mixture, the wool is mixed with only one other fibre.

The full percentage composition of such mixture shall be given.

Article 9

Multi-fibre textile products

Article 10

Decorative fibres and fibres with antistatic effect

Article 11

Multi-component textile products

• (a) those components are not main linings; and

• (b) those components represent less than 30 % of the total weight of the textile product.

Article 12

Textile products containing non-textile parts of animal origin

Article 13

Labelling and marking of textile products listed in Annex IV

The fibre composition of textile products listed in Annex IV shall be indicated in accordance with the labelling and marking provisions set out in that Annex.

Article 14

Labels and markings

The labelling and marking of textile products shall be durable, easily legible, visible and accessible and, in the case of a label, securely attached.

Abbreviations shall not be used with the exception of a mechanised processing code, or where the abbreviations are defined in international standards, provided that they are explained in the same commercial document.

Article 15

Obligation to supply the label or marking

Article 16

The use of textile fibre names and fibre composition descriptions

However, where a trade mark or a name of an undertaking contains, on its own or as a root or as an adjective, one of the textile fibre names listed in Annex I or a name liable to be confused therewith, such trade mark or name shall be given immediately before or after the textile fibre composition descriptions referred to in Articles 5, 7, 8 and 9.

Other information shall be always displayed separately.

In the case of bobbins, reels, skeins, balls or other small quantities of sewing, mending and embroidery yarns, the first subparagraph shall apply to the inclusive labelling referred to in Article 17(3). Whenever these products are individually sold, they may be labelled or marked in any of the official languages of the institutions of the Union, provided they are also inclusively labelled.

Article 17

Derogations

However, where a trade mark or name of an undertaking contains, on its own or as a root or as an adjective, one of the names listed in Annex I or a name liable to be confused therewith, Articles 11, 14, 15 and 16 shall apply.

CHAPTER 3 MARKET SURVEILLANCE

Article 18

Market surveillance checks

Market surveillance authorities shall carry out checks on the conformity of the fibre composition of textile products with the supplied information related to the fibre composition of those products in accordance with this Regulation.

Article 19

Determination of fibre composition

Article 20

Tolerances

• (a) 2 % of the total weight of the textile product, provided this quantity is justified as being technically unavoidable in good manufacturing practice and is not added as a matter of routine; or

• (b) 5 % of the total weight in the case of textile products which have undergone a carding process, provided this quantity is justified as being technically unavoidable in good manufacturing practice and is not added as a matter of routine.

• (a) fibres which may be designated by the term ‘other fibres’ in accordance with Article 9;

• (b) the percentage of wool referred to in point (b) of Article 8(2).

For the purposes of the analysis, the tolerances shall be calculated separately. The total weight to be taken into account in calculating the tolerance referred to in this paragraph shall be that of the fibres of the finished product less the weight of any extraneous fibres found when applying the tolerance referred to in paragraph 2 of this Article.

Prior to placing the textile product on the market, the manufacturer shall submit a request for authorisation by the Commission providing sufficient reasons for and evidence of the exceptional manufacturing circumstances. The authorisation may only be granted in exceptional cases and where adequate justification is provided by the manufacturer.

If appropriate, the Commission shall adopt, by means of delegated acts in accordance with Article 22, technical criteria and procedural rules for the application of this paragraph.

CHAPTER 4 FINAL PROVISIONS

Article 21

Delegated acts

Article 22

Exercise of the delegation

Article 23

Reporting

By 8 November 2014, the Commission shall submit a report to the European Parliament and to the Council on the application of this Regulation, with an emphasis on the requests for and adoption of new textile fibre names and submit, where appropriate, a legislative proposal.

Article 24

Review

• (a) an origin labelling scheme aimed at providing consumers with accurate information on the country of origin and additional information ensuring full traceability of textile products, taking into account the results of developments on potential horizontal country-of-origin rules;

• (b) a harmonised care labelling system;

• (c) a Union-wide uniform size labelling system for relevant textile products;

• (d) an indication of allergenic substances;

• (e) electronic labelling and other new technologies, and the use of language-independent symbols or codes for the identification of fibres.

Article 25

Study on hazardous substances

By 30 September 2013, the Commission shall carry out a study to evaluate whether there is a causal link between allergic reactions and chemical substances or mixtures used in textile products. On the basis of that study, the Commission shall, where appropriate, submit legislative proposals in the context of existing Union legislation.

Article 26

Transitional provision

Textile products which comply with Directive 2008/121/EC and which are placed on the market before 8 May 2012 may continue to be made available on the market until 9 November 2014.

Article 27

Repeal

Directives 73/44/EEC, 96/73/EC and 2008/121/EC are hereby repealed with effect from 8 May 2012.

References to the repealed Directives shall be construed as references to this Regulation and shall be read in accordance with the correlation tables in Annex X.

Article 28

Entry into force

This Regulation shall enter into force on the 20th day following its publication in the Official Journal of the European Union.

It shall apply from 8 May 2012.

This Regulation shall be binding in its entirety and directly applicable in all Member States.

ANNEX I

List of textile fibre names

(referred to in Article 5)

Table 1

Number	Name	Fibre description
1	wool	fibre from sheep's or lambs’ fleeces (Ovis aries) or a mixture of fibres from sheep's or lambs’ fleeces and the hairs of animals listed in number 2
2	alpaca, llama, camel, cashmere, mohair, angora, vicuna, yak, guanaco, cashgora, beaver, otter, followed or not by the word ‘wool’ or ‘hair’	hair of the following animals: alpaca, llama, camel, kashmir goat, angora goat, angora rabbit, vicuna, yak, guanaco, cashgora goat, beaver, otter
3	animal or horsehair, with or without an indication of the kind of animal (e.g. cattle hair, common goat hair, horsehair)	hair of the various animals not mentioned under number 1 or 2
4	Silk	fibre obtained exclusively from silk-secreting insects
5	cotton	fibre obtained from the bolls of the cotton plant (Gossypium)
6	kapok	fibre obtained from the inside of the kapok fruit (Ceiba pentandra)
7	flax (or linen)	fibre obtained from the bast of the flax plant (Linum usitatissimum)
8	true hemp	fibre obtained from the bast of hemp (Cannabis sativa)
9	Jute	fibre obtained from the bast of Corchorus olitorius and Corchorus capsularis. For the purposes of this Regulation, bast fibres obtained from the following species shall be treated in the same way as jute: Hibiscus cannabinus, Hibiscus sabdariffa, Abutilon avicennae, Urena lobata, Urena sinuata
10	abaca (Manila hemp)	fibre obtained from the sheathing leaf of Musa textilis
11	Alfa	fibre obtained from the leaves of Stipa tenacissima
12	coir (coconut)	fibre obtained from the fruit of Cocos nucifera
13	broom	fibre obtained from the bast of Cytisus scoparius and/or Spartium Junceum
14	ramie	fibre obtained from the bast of Boehmeria nivea and Boehmeria tenacissima
15	sisal	fibre obtained from the leaves of Agave sisalana
16	sunn	fibre from the bast of Crotalaria juncea
17	henequen	fibre from the bast of Agave fourcroydes
18	maguey	fibre from the bast of Agave cantala

Table 2

Number	Name	Fibre description
19	acetate	cellulose acetate fibre wherein less than 92 % but at least 74 % of the hydroxyl groups are acetylated
20	alginate	fibre obtained from metallic salts of alginic acid
21	cupro	regenerated cellulose fibre obtained by the cuprammonium process
22	modal	a regenerated cellulose fibre obtained by a modified viscose process having a high breaking force and high wet modulus. The breaking force (BC) in the conditioned state and the force (BM) required to produce an elongation of 5 % in the wet state are: BC (cN) ≥ 1,3 Image omitted; see official source BM (cN) ≥ 0,5 Image omitted; see official source where T is the mean linear density in decitex
23	protein	fibre obtained from natural protein substances regenerated and stabilised through the action of chemical agents
24	triacetate	cellulose acetate fibre wherein at least 92 % of the hydroxyl groups are acetylated
25	viscose	regenerated cellulose fibre obtained by the viscose process for filament and discontinuous fibre
26	acrylic	fibre formed of linear macromolecules comprising at least 85 % (by mass) in the chain of the acrylonitrilic pattern
27	chlorofibre	fibre formed of linear macromolecules having in their chain more than 50 % by mass of chlorinated vinyl or chlorinated vinylidene monomeric units
28	fluorofibre	fibre formed of linear macromolecules made from fluorocarbon aliphatic monomers
29	modacrylic	fibre formed of linear macromolecules having in the chain more than 50 % and less than 85 % (by mass) of the acrylonitrilic pattern
30	polyamide or nylon	fibre formed from synthetic linear macromolecules having in the chain recurring amide linkages of which at least 85 % are joined to aliphatic or cycloaliphatic units
31	aramid	fibre formed from synthetic linear macromolecules made up of aromatic groups joined by amide or imide linkages, of which at least 85 % are joined directly to two aromatic rings and with the number of imide linkages, if present, not exceeding the number of amide linkages
32	polyimide	fibre formed from synthetic linear macromolecules having in the chain recurring imide units
33	lyocell	a regenerated cellulose fibre obtained by dissolution, and an organic solvent (mixture of organic chemicals and water) spinning process, without formation of derivatives
34	polylactide	fibre formed of linear macromolecules having in the chain at least 85 % (by mass) of lactic acid ester units derived from naturally occurring sugars, and which has a melting temperature of at least 135 °C
35	polyester	fibre formed of linear macromolecules comprising at least 85 % (by mass) in the chain of an ester of a diol and terephthalic acid
36	polyethylene	fibre formed of un-substituted aliphatic saturated hydrocarbon linear macromolecules
37	polypropylene	fibre formed of an aliphatic saturated hydrocarbon linear macromolecule where one carbon atom in two carries a methyl side chain in an isotactic disposition and without further substitution
38	polycarbamide	fibre formed of linear macromolecules having in the chain the recurring ureylene (NH-CO-NH) functional group
39	polyurethane	fibre formed of linear macromolecules composed of chains with the recurring urethane functional group
40	vinylal	fibre formed of linear macromolecules whose chain is constituted by poly(vinyl alcohol) with differing levels of acetalisation
41	trivinyl	fibre formed of acrylonitrile terpolymer, a chlorinated vinyl monomer and a third vinyl monomer, none of which represents as much as 50 % of the total mass
42	elastodiene	elastofibre composed of natural or synthetic polyisoprene, or composed of one or more dienes polymerised with or without one or more vinyl monomers, and which, when stretched to three times its original length and released, recovers rapidly and substantially to its initial length
43	elastane	elastofibre composed of at least 85 % (by mass) of a segmented polyurethane, and which, when stretched to three times its original length and released, recovers rapidly and substantially to its initial length
44	glass fibre	fibre made of glass
45	elastomultiester	fibre formed by interaction of two or more chemically distinct linear macromolecules in two or more distinct phases (of which none exceeds 85 % by mass) which contains ester groups as the dominant functional unit (at least 85 %) and which, after suitable treatment when stretched to one and half times its original length and released, recovers rapidly and substantially to its initial length
46	elastolefin	fibre composed of at least 95 % (by mass) of macromolecules partially cross-linked, made up from ethylene and at least one other olefin and which, when stretched to one and a half times its original length and released, recovers rapidly and substantially to its initial length
47	melamine	fibre formed of at least 85 % by mass of cross-linked macromolecules made up of melamine derivatives
48	name corresponding to the material of which the fibres are composed, e.g. metal (metallic, metallised), asbestos, paper, followed or not by the word ‘yarn’ or ‘fibre’	fibres obtained from miscellaneous or new materials not listed above
49	polypropylene/polyamide bicomponent	a bicomponent fibre composed of between 10 % and 25 % by mass of polyamide fibrils embedded in polypropylene matrix
50	polyacrylate	fibre formed of cross-linked macromolecules having more than 35 % (by mass) of acrylate groups (acid, light metal salts or esters) and less than 10 % (by mass) of acrylonitrile groups in the chain and up to 15 % (by mass) of nitrogen in the cross-linking

ANNEX II

Minimum requirements regarding a technical file to be included in the application for a new textile fibre name

(referred to in Article 6)

A technical file to be attached to an application for the inclusion of a new textile fibre name in the list set out in Annex I, as provided for in Article 6, shall contain at least the following information:

• (1) Proposed name of the textile fibre: The name proposed shall be related to the chemical composition and shall provide information about the characteristics of the fibre, if appropriate. The name proposed shall be free of any intellectual property rights and shall not be linked to the manufacturer.

• (2) Proposed definition of the textile fibre: The definition proposed shall describe the fibre composition. The characteristics mentioned in the definition of the new textile fibre, such as elasticity, shall be verifiable via standard test methods to be provided with the technical file along with the experimental results of analyses.

• (3) Identification of the textile fibre: chemical formula, differences from existing textile fibres, FTIR spectrum together with, where relevant, detailed data such as melting point, density, refractive index and burning behaviour.

• (4) Proposed agreed allowance to be used in the calculation of fibre composition.

• (5) Proposed identification and quantification methods, including experimental data: The applicant shall evaluate the possibility to use the methods listed in Annex VIII or the harmonised standards to be introduced in that Annex to analyse the most expected commercial mixtures of the new textile fibre with other textile fibres and shall propose at least one of those methods. For those methods or harmonised standards where the textile fibre can be considered as an insoluble component, the applicant shall indicate the ‘d’ factors, which correspond to the mass correction factors to be applied for the calculations (to account for the loss in mass, known to occur during the analysis) of the new textile fibre. If methods listed in this Regulation are not suitable, the applicant shall provide adequate reasoning and propose one or more new methods. The proposed new method or methods shall describe the field of application (including fibre mixtures), the principle (notably chemical process and steps), the apparatus and reagent or reagents, the test procedure, the calculation and expression of results (including the value of ‘d’ factors), and the precision (confidence limits of results). The application shall contain all the experimental data, in particular regarding fibre characteristics, identification and quantification methods proposed. Data on the accuracy, robustness and repeatability of the methods shall be provided with the file.

• (6) Available scientific information concerning possible allergic reactions or other adverse effects of the new textile fibre on human health, including results of tests conducted to that effect in compliance with relevant Union legislation.

• (7) Additional information on production process and consumer relevance to support the application: The technical file shall, at least, contain information on the number of producers, the location of production facilities and the expected market availability of the new fibre or of products manufactured from that fibre.

• (8) Availability of samples: The manufacturer or any person acting on the manufacturer's behalf shall provide representative samples of the new pure textile fibre and the relevant textile fibre mixtures necessary for verifying the accuracy, robustness and repeatability of the proposed identification and quantification methods. The Commission may request additional samples of relevant fibre mixtures from the manufacturer or the person acting on the manufacturer's behalf.

The manufacturer or any person acting on the manufacturer’s behalf shall provide representative samples of the new pure textile fibre and the relevant textile fibre mixtures necessary to conduct the validation of the proposed identification and quantification methods. The Commission may request additional samples of relevant fibre mixtures from the manufacturer or the person acting on the manufacturer’s behalf.

ANNEX III

Names referred to in Article 8(1)

• — in Bulgarian : ‘необработена вълна’

• — in Spanish : ‘lana virgen’ or ‘lana de esquilado’

• — in Czech : ‘střižní vlna’

• — in Danish : ‘ren, ny uld’

• — in German : ‘Schurwolle’

• — in Estonian : ‘uus vill’

• — in Greek : ‘παρθένο μαλλί’

• — in English : ‘fleece wool’ or ‘virgin wool’

• — in French : ‘laine vierge’ or ‘laine de tonte’

• — in Croatian : ‘runska vuna’

• — in Irish : ‘olann lomra’

• — in Italian : ‘lana vergine’ or ‘lana di tosa’

• — in Latvian : ‘pirmlietojuma vilna’ or ‘cirptā vilna’

• — in Lithuanian : ‘natūralioji vilna’

• — in Hungarian : ‘élőgyapjú’

• — in Maltese : ‘suf verġni’

• — in Dutch : ‘scheerwol’

• — in Polish : ‘żywa wełna’

• — in Portuguese : ‘lã virgem’

• — in Romanian : ‘lână virgină’

• — in Slovak : ‘strižná vlna’

• — in Slovene : ‘runska volna’

• — in Finnish : ‘uusi villa’

• — in Swedish : ‘ny ull’

ANNEX IV

Special provisions for the labelling and marking of certain textile products

(referred to in Article 13)

Products	Labelling and marking provisions
1. The following corsetry products:	The fibre composition shall be indicated on the label and marking by stating the composition of the whole product or, either inclusively or separately, that of the components listed respectively:
(a) Brassières	the outside and the inside fabric of the surface of the cups and back
(b) Corsets and girdles	the front, the rear and side panels
(c) Corselets	the outside and inside fabric of the surface of cups, the front and rear stiffening panels and the side panels
2. Other corsetry products not listed above	The fibre composition shall be indicated by stating the composition of the whole product or, either inclusively or separately, the composition of the various components of the products. Such labelling shall not be compulsory for components representing less than 10 % of the total weight of the product
3. All corsetry products	The separate labelling and marking of the various parts of corsetry products shall be carried out in such a way that the consumer can easily understand to which part of the product the information on the label or marking refers
4. Etch-printed textiles	The fibre composition shall be given for the product as a whole and may be indicated by stating, separately, the composition of the base fabric and that of the etched parts. Those components shall be mentioned by name
5. Embroidered textiles	The fibre composition shall be given for the product as a whole and may be indicated by stating, separately, the composition of the base fabric and that of the embroidery yarn. Those components shall be mentioned by name. Such labelling or marking is compulsory only for the embroidered parts which amount to at least 10 % of the surface area of the product
6. Yarns consisting of a core and a cover made up of different fibres and made available on the market as such to the consumer	The fibre composition shall be given for the product as a whole and may be indicated by stating the composition of the core and the cover separately. Those components shall be mentioned by name
7. Velvet and plush textiles, or textiles resembling velvet or plush	The fibre composition shall be given for the whole product and, where the product comprises a distinct backing and a use-surface composed of different fibres, may be stated separately for those components. Those components shall be mentioned by name
8. Floor coverings and carpets of which the backing and the use-surface are composed of different fibres	The fibre composition may be stated for the use-surface alone. The use-surface must be mentioned by name

ANNEX V

Textile products for which labelling or marking is not mandatory

(referred to in Article 17(2))

• 1.Sleeve-supporting armbands

• 2.Watch straps of textile materials

• 3.Labels and badges

• 4.Stuffed pan-holders of textile materials

• 5.Coffee cosy covers

• 6.Tea cosy covers

• 7.Sleeve protectors

• 8.Muffs other than in pile fabric

• 9.Artificial flowers

• 10.Pin cushions

• 11.Painted canvas

• 12.Textile products for base and underlying fabrics and stiffenings

• 13.Old made-up textile products, where explicitly stated to be such

• 14.Gaiters

• 15.Packaging, not new and sold as such

• 16.Fancy goods and saddlery, of textile materials

• 17.Travel goods of textile materials

• 18.Hand-embroidered tapestries, finished or unfinished, and materials for their production, including embroidery yarns, sold separately from the canvas and specially presented for use in such tapestries

• 19.Slide fasteners

• 20.Buttons and buckles covered with textile materials

• 21.Book covers of textile materials

• 22.Toys

• 23.Textile parts of footwear

• 24.Table mats having several components and a surface area of not more than 500 cm²

• 25.Oven gloves and cloths

• 26.Egg cosy covers

• 27.Make-up cases

• 28.Tobacco pouches of textile fabric

• 29.Spectacle, cigarette and cigar, lighter and comb cases of textile fabric

• 30.Covers for mobile telephones and portable media players with a surface of not more than 160 cm²

• 31.Protective requisites for sports with the exception of gloves

• 32.Toilet cases

• 33.Shoe-cleaning cases

• 34.Funeral products

• 35.Disposable products, with the exception of wadding

• 36.Textile products subject to the rules of the European Pharmacopoeia and covered by a reference to those rules, non-disposable bandages for medical and orthopaedic use and orthopaedic textile products in general

• 37.Textile products including cordage, ropes and string, subject to item 12 of Annex VI, normally intended:

• (a) for use as equipment components in the manufacture and processing of goods;

• (b) for incorporation in machines, installations (e.g. for heating, air conditioning or lighting), domestic and other appliances, vehicles and other means of transport, or for their operation, maintenance or equipment, other than tarpaulin covers and textile motor vehicle accessories sold separately from the vehicle

• 38.Textile products for protection and safety purposes such as safety belts, parachutes, life-jackets, emergency chutes, fire-fighting devices, bulletproof waistcoats and special protective garments (e.g. protection against fire, chemical substances or other safety hazards)

• 39.Air-supported structures (e.g. sports halls, exhibition stands or storage facilities), provided that details of the performances and technical specifications of these products are supplied

• 40.Sails

• 41.Animal clothing

• 42.Flags and banners

ANNEX VI

Textile products for which inclusive labelling is sufficient

(referred to in Article 17(3))

• 1.Floorcloths

• 2.Cleaning cloths

• 3.Edgings and trimmings

• 4.Passementerie

• 5.Belts

• 6.Braces

• 7.Suspenders and garters

• 8.Shoe and boot laces

• 9.Ribbons

• 10.Elastic

• 11.New packaging sold as such

• 12.Packing string and agricultural twine; string, cordage and ropes other than those falling within item 37 of Annex V ([^E0002])

• 13.Table mats

• 14.Handkerchiefs

• 15.Bun nets and hair nets

• 16.Ties and bow ties for children

• 17.Bibs, washgloves and face flannels

• 18.Sewing, mending and embroidery yarns presented for retail sale

• 19.Tape for curtains and blinds and shutters

ANNEX VII

Items not to be taken into account for the determination of fibre composition

(referred to in Article 19(2))

Products	Items excluded
(a) All textile products	(i) Non-textile parts, selvedges, labels and badges, edgings and trimmings not forming an integral part of the product, buttons and buckles covered with textile materials, accessories, decorations, non-elastic ribbons, elastic threads and bands added at specific and limited points of the product and, subject to the conditions specified in Article 10, visible, isolable fibres which are purely decorative and fibres with antistatic effect (ii) Fatty substances, binders, weightings, sizings and dressings, impregnating products, additional dyeing and printing products and other textile processing products
(b) Floor coverings and carpets	All components other than the use-surface
(c) Upholstery fabrics	Binding and filling warps and wefts which do not form part of the use-surface
(d) Hangings and curtains	Binding and filling warps and wefts which do not form part of the right side of the fabric
(e) Socks	Additional elastic yarns used in the cuff and the stiffening and reinforcement yarns of the toe and the heel
(f) Tights	Additional elastic yarns used in the belt and the stiffening and reinforcement yarns of the toe and the heel
(g) Textile products other than those under points (b) to (f)	Base or underlying fabrics, stiffenings and reinforcements, inter-linings and canvas backings, stitching and assembly threads unless they replace the warp and/or weft of the fabric, fillings not having an insulating function and, subject to Article 11(2), linings For the purposes of this provision: (i) the base or underlying material of textile products which serve as a backing for the use-surface, in particular in blankets and double fabrics, and the backings of velvet or plush fabrics and kindred products shall not be regarded as backings to be removed; (ii) ‘stiffenings and reinforcements’ mean the yarns or materials added at specific and limited points of the textile products to strengthen them or to give them stiffness or thickness

ANNEX VIII

Methods for the quantitative analysis of binary and ternary textile fibre mixtures

(referred to in Article 19(1))

CHAPTER 1

I. Preparation of laboratory test samples and test specimens to determine the fibre composition of textile products

1. FIELD OF APPLICATION

This Chapter gives procedures for obtaining laboratory test samples of a suitable size for pre-treatment for quantitative analysis (i.e. of a mass not exceeding 100 g) from laboratory bulk samples, and for selecting test specimens from the laboratory test samples that have been pre-treated to remove non-fibrous matter ([^E0003]).

2. DEFINITIONS

2.1.   Bulk source

The quantity of material which is assessed on the basis of one series of test results. This may comprise, for example, all the material in one delivery of cloth; all the cloth woven from a particular beam; a consignment of yarn, a bale or a group of bales of raw fibre.

2.2.   Laboratory bulk sample

The portion of the bulk source taken to be representative of the whole, and which is available to the laboratory. The size and nature of the laboratory bulk sample shall be sufficient to adequately overcome the variability of the bulk source and to facilitate ease of handling in the laboratory ([^E0004]).

2.3.   Laboratory test sample

That portion of the laboratory bulk sample that is subjected to pre-treatment to remove non-fibrous matter, and from which test specimens are taken. The size and nature of the laboratory test sample shall be sufficient to overcome adequately the variability of the laboratory bulk sample ([^E0005]).

2.4.   Test specimen

The portion of material required to give an individual test result, and selected from the laboratory test sample.

3. PRINCIPLE

The laboratory test sample is selected so that it is representative of the laboratory bulk sample.

The test specimens are taken from the laboratory test sample in such a way that each of them is representative of the laboratory test sample.

4. SAMPLING FROM LOOSE FIBRES

4.1.   Unorientated fibres

Obtain the laboratory test sample by selecting tufts at random from the laboratory bulk sample. Mix thoroughly the whole of the laboratory test sample by means of a laboratory carder ([^E0006]). Subject the web or mixture, including loose fibres and fibres adhering to the equipment used for mixing, to pre-treatment. Then select test specimens, in proportion to the respective masses, from the web or mixture, from the loose fibres and from the fibres adhering to the equipment.

If the card web remains intact after pre-treatment, select the test specimens in the manner described in 4.2. If the card web is disturbed by the pre-treatment, select each test specimen by removing at random at least 16 small tufts of suitable and approximately equal size and then combine them.

4.2.   Orientated fibres (cards, webs, slivers, rovings)

From randomly selected parts of the laboratory bulk sample cut not less than 10 cross-sections each of mass approximately 1 g. Subject the laboratory test sample so formed to the pre-treatment. Recombine the cross-sections by laying them side by side and obtain the test specimen by cutting through them so as to take a portion of each of the 10 lengths.

5. SAMPLING YARN

5.1.   Yarn in packages or in banks

Sample all the packages in the bulk laboratory sample.

Withdraw the appropriate continuous equal lengths from each package either by winding skeins of the same number of turns on a wrap-reel ([^E0007]), or by some other means. Unite the lengths side by side either as a single skein or as a tow to form the laboratory test sample, ensuring that there are equal lengths from each package in the skein or tow.

Subject the laboratory test sample to the pre-treatment.

Take test specimens from the laboratory test sample by cutting a bunch of threads of equal length from the skein or tow, taking care to see that the bunch contains all the threads in the sample.

If the tex of the yarn is t and the number of packages selected from the laboratory bulk sample is n, then to obtain a test sample of 10 g, the length of yarn to be withdrawn from each package is 10⁶/nt cm.

If nt is high, i.e. more than 2 000 , wind a heavier skein and cut it across in two places to make a tow of suitable mass. The ends of any sample in the form of a tow shall be securely tied before pre-treatment and test specimens taken from a place remote from the tie bands.

5.2.   Yarn on warp

Take the laboratory test sample by cutting a length from the end of the warp, not less than 20 cm long and comprising all the yarns in the warp except the selvedge yarns, which are rejected. Tie the bunch of threads together near one end. If the sample is too large for pre-treatment as a whole divide it into two or more portions, each tied together for pre-treatment, and reunite the portions after each has been pre-treated separately. Take a test specimen by cutting a suitable length from the laboratory test sample from the end remote from the tie band, and comprising all the threads in the warp. For warp of N threads of tex t, the length of a specimen of mass 1 g is 10⁵/Nt cm.

6. SAMPLING FABRIC

6.1.   From a laboratory bulk sample consisting of a single cutting representative of the cloth

Cut a diagonal strip from one corner to the other and remove the selvedges. This strip is the laboratory test sample. To obtain a laboratory test sample of x g, the strip area shall be x10⁴/G cm², where G is the mass of the cloth in g/m².

Subject the laboratory test sample to the pre-treatment and then cut the strip transversely into four equal lengths and superimpose them. Take test specimens from any part of the layered material by cutting through all the layers so that each specimen contains an equal length of each layer.

If the fabric has a woven design, make the width of the laboratory test sample, measured parallel to the warp direction, not less than one warp repeat of the design. If, with this condition satisfied, the laboratory test sample is too large to be treated as a whole, cut it into equal parts, pre-treat them separately, and superimpose these parts before selection of the test specimen, taking care that corresponding parts of the design do not coincide.

6.2.   From a laboratory bulk sample consisting of several cuttings

Treat each cutting as described in 6.1, and give each result separately.

7. SAMPLING MADE-UP AND FINISHED PRODUCTS

The bulk laboratory sample is normally a complete made-up or finished product or representative fraction of one.

Where appropriate determine the percentage of the various parts of the product not having the same fibre content, in order to check compliance with Article 11.

Select a laboratory test sample representative of the part of the made-up or finished product, whose composition must be shown by the label. If the product has several labels, select laboratory test samples representative of each part corresponding to a given label.

If the product whose composition is to be determined is not uniform, it may be necessary to select laboratory test samples from each of the parts of the product and to determine the relative proportions of the various parts in relation to the whole product in question.

Then calculate the percentages taking into account the relative proportions of the sampled parts.

Subject the laboratory test samples to the pre-treatment.

Then select test specimens representative of the pre-treated laboratory test samples.

II.   Introduction to the methods for the quantitative analysis of textile fibre mixtures

Methods for the quantitative analysis of fibre mixtures are based on two main processes, the manual separation and the chemical separation of fibres.

The method of manual separation shall be used whenever possible since it generally gives more accurate results than the chemical method. It can be used for all textiles whose component fibres do not form an intimate mixture, as for example in the case of yarns composed of several elements each of which is made up of only one type of fibre, or fabrics in which the fibre of the warp is of a different kind to that of the weft, or knitted fabrics capable of being unravelled made up of yarns of different types.

In general, the methods of chemical quantitative analysis are based on the selective solution of the individual components. After the removal of a component the insoluble residue is weighed, and the proportion of the soluble component is calculated from the loss in mass. This first part of the Annex gives the information common to the analyses by this method of all fibre mixtures dealt with in the Annex, whatever their composition. It shall thus be used in conjunction with the succeeding individual sections of the Annex, which contain the detailed procedures applicable to particular fibre mixtures. Occasionally, an analysis is based on a principle other than selective solution; in such cases full details are given in the appropriate section.

Mixtures of fibres during processing and, to a lesser extent, finished textiles may contain non-fibrous matter, such as fats, waxes or dressings, or water-soluble matter, either occurring naturally or added to facilitate processing. Non-fibrous matter must be removed before analysis. For this reason a method for removing oils, fats, waxes and water-soluble matter is also given.

In addition, textiles may contain resins or other matter added to confer special properties. Such matter, including dyestuffs in exceptional cases, may interfere with the action of the reagent on the soluble component and/or it may be partially or completely removed by the reagent. This type of added matter may thus cause errors and shall be removed before the sample is analysed. If it is impossible to remove such added matter the methods for quantitative chemical analysis given in this Annex are no longer applicable.

Dye in dyed fabrics is considered to be an integral part of the fibre and is not removed.

Analyses are conducted on the basis of dry mass and a procedure is given for determining dry mass.

The result is obtained by applying to the dry mass of each fibre the agreed allowances listed in Annex IX.

Before proceeding with any analysis, all the fibres present in the mixture shall have been identified. In some methods, the insoluble component of a mixture may be partially dissolved in the reagent used to dissolve the soluble component(s).

Where possible, reagents have been chosen that have little or no effect on the insoluble fibres. If loss in mass is known to occur during the analysis, the result shall be corrected; correction factors for this purpose are given. These factors have been determined in several laboratories by treating, with the appropriate reagent as specified in the method of analysis, fibres cleaned by the pre treatment.

These correction factors apply only to undegraded fibres and different correction factors may be necessary if the fibres have been degraded before or during processing. The procedures given apply to single determinations.

At least two determinations on separate test specimens shall be made, both in the case of manual separation and in the case of chemical separation.

For confirmation, unless technically impossible, it is recommended to use alternative procedures whereby the constituent that was the residue in the standard method is dissolved out first.

CHAPTER 2

METHODS FOR QUANTITATIVE ANALYSIS OF CERTAIN BINARY TEXTILE FIBRE MIXTURES

I. General information common to the methods given for the quantitative chemical analysis of textile fibre mixtures

I.1.   FIELD OF APPLICATION

The field of application for each method specifies to which fibres the method is applicable.

I.2.   PRINCIPLE

After the identification of the components of a mixture, the non-fibrous material is removed by suitable pre-treatment and then one of the components, usually by selective solution ([^E0008]). The insoluble residue is weighed and the proportion of soluble component calculated from the loss in mass. Except where this presents technical difficulties, it is preferable to dissolve the fibre present in the greater proportion, thus obtaining the fibre present in the smaller proportion as residue.

I.3.   MATERIALS AND EQUIPMENT

I.3.1.   Apparatus

• I.3.1.1. Filter crucibles and weighing bottles large enough to contain such crucibles, or any other apparatus giving identical results.

• I.3.1.2. Vacuum flask.

• I.3.1.3. Desiccator containing self-indicating silica gel.

• I.3.1.4. Ventilated oven for drying specimens at 105 ± 3 °C.

• I.3.1.5. Analytical balance, accurate to 0,0002 g.

• I.3.1.6. Soxhlet extractor or other apparatus giving identical results.

• I.3.2. Reagents.

• I.3.2.1. Light petroleum, redistilled, boiling range 40 to 60 °C.

• I.3.2.2. Other reagents are specified in the appropriate section of each method.

• I.3.2.3. Distilled or deionised water.

• I.3.2.4. Acetone.

• I.3.2.5. Orthophosphoric acid.

• I.3.2.6. Urea.

• I.3.2.7. Sodium bicarbonate.

All reagents used shall be chemically pure.

I.4.   CONDITIONING AND TESTING ATMOSPHERE

Because dry masses are determined, it is unnecessary to condition the specimen or to conduct analyses in a conditioned atmosphere.

I.5.   LABORATORY TEST SAMPLE

Take a laboratory test sample that is representative of the laboratory bulk sample and sufficient to provide all the specimens, each of at least 1 g, that are required.

I.6.   PRE-TREATMENT OF LABORATORY TEST SAMPLE ([^E0009])

Where a substance not to be taken into account in the percentage calculations (see Article 19) is present, it shall first be removed by a suitable method that does not affect any of the fibre constituents.

For this purpose, non-fibrous matter which can be extracted with light petroleum and water is removed by treating the laboratory test sample in a Soxhlet extractor with light petroleum for 1 hour at a minimum rate of six cycles per hour. Allow the light petroleum to evaporate from the sample, which is then extracted by direct treatment consisting in soaking the laboratory test sample in water at room temperature for 1 hour and then soaking it in water at 65 ± 5 °C for a further hour, agitating the liquor from time to time. Use a liquor-laboratory test sample ratio of 100:1. Remove the excess water from the sample by squeezing, suction or centrifuging and then allow the sample to become air-dry.

In the case of elastolefin or fibre mixtures containing elastolefin and other fibres (wool, animal hair, silk, cotton, flax (or linen) true hemp, jute, abaca, alfa, coir, broom, ramie, sisal, cupro, modal, protein, viscose, acrylic, polyamide or nylon, polyester, elastomultiester) the procedure just described shall be slightly modified, in that light petroleum ether shall be replaced by acetone.

In the case of binary fibre mixtures containing elastolefin and acetate the following procedure shall apply as pre-treatment. Extract the laboratory test sample for 10 minutes at 80 °C with a solution containing 25 g/l of 50 % orthophosphoric acid and 50 g/l of urea. Use a liquor-laboratory test sample ratio of 100:1. Wash laboratory test sample in water, then drain and wash it in a 0,1 % sodium bicarbonate solution, finally wash it carefully in water.

Where non-fibrous matter cannot be extracted with light petroleum and water, it shall be removed by substituting for the water method described above a suitable method that does not substantially alter any of the fibre constituents. However, for some unbleached, natural vegetable fibres (e.g. jute, coir) it is to be noted that normal pre-treatment with light petroleum and water does not remove all the natural non-fibrous substances; nevertheless additional pre-treatment is not applied unless the sample contains finishes insoluble in both light petroleum and water.

Analysis reports shall include full details of the methods of pre-treatment used.

I.7.   TEST PROCEDURE

I.7.1.   General instructions

I.7.1.1.   Drying

Conduct all drying operations for not less than 4 hours and not more than 16 hours at 105 ± 3 °C in a ventilated oven with the oven door closed throughout. If the drying period is less than 14 hours, the specimen must be weighed to check that its mass has become constant. The mass may be considered to have become constant if, after a further drying period of 60 minutes, its variation is less than 0,05 %.

Avoid handling crucibles and weighing bottles, specimens or residues with bare hands during the drying, cooling and weighing operations.

Dry specimens in a weighing bottle with its cover beside it. After drying, stopper the weighing bottle before removing it from the oven, and transfer it quickly to the desiccator.

Dry the filter crucible in a weighing bottle with its cover beside it in the oven. After drying, close the weighing bottle and transfer it quickly to the desiccator.

Where apparatus other than a filter crucible is used, drying operations in the oven shall be conducted in such a way as to enable the dry mass of the fibres to be determined without loss.

I.7.1.2.   Cooling

Conduct all cooling operations in the desiccator, the latter placed beside the balance, until complete cooling of the weighing bottles is attained, and in any case for not less than 2 hours.

I.7.1.3.   Weighing

After cooling, complete the weighing of the weighing bottle within 2 minutes of its removal from the desiccator. Weigh to an accuracy of 0,0002 g.

I.7.2.   Procedure

Take from the pre-treated laboratory test sample a test specimen weighing at least 1 g. Cut yarn or cloth into lengths of about 10 mm, dissected as much as possible. Dry the specimen in a weighing bottle, cool it in the desiccator and weigh it. Transfer the specimen to the glass vessel specified in the appropriate section of the relevant Union method, reweigh the weighing bottle immediately and obtain the dry mass of the specimen by difference. Complete the test as specified in the appropriate section of the applicable method. Examine the residue microscopically to check that the treatment has in fact completely removed the soluble fibre.

I.8.   CALCULATION AND EXPRESSION OF RESULTS

Express the mass of the insoluble component as a percentage of the total mass of fibre in the mixture. The percentage of soluble component is obtained by difference. Calculate the results on the basis of clean, dry mass, adjusted by (a) the agreed allowances and (b) the correction factors necessary to take account of loss of matter during pre-treatment and analysis. Calculations shall be made by applying the formula given in I.8.2.

• I.8.1. Calculation of percentage of insoluble component on clean, dry mass basis, disregarding loss of fibre mass during pre-treatment:

Image omitted; see official source

where

• P1% is the percentage of clean, dry insoluble component,

• m is the dry mass of the test specimen after pre-treatment,

• r is the dry mass of the residue,

• d is the correction factor for loss in mass of the insoluble component in the reagent during the analysis. Suitable values for ‘d’ are given in the relevant section of each method.

Of course, these values for ‘d’ are the normal values applicable to chemically undegraded fibres.

• I.8.2. Calculation of percentage of insoluble component on clean, dry mass basis, with adjustment by conventional factors and, where appropriate, correction factors for loss of mass during pre-treatment:

Image omitted; see official source

where

• P1A% is the percentage of insoluble component adjusted by agreed allowances and for loss in mass during pre-treatment,

• P1 is the percentage of clean dry insoluble component as calculated from the formula shown in I.8.1,

• a1 is the agreed allowance for the insoluble component (see Annex IX),

• a2 is the agreed allowance for the soluble component (see Annex IX),

• b1 is the percentage loss of insoluble component caused by pre-treatment,

• b2 is the percentage loss of soluble component caused by pre-treatment.

The percentage of the second component is P2A % = 100 – P1A %.

Where a special pre-treatment has been used, the values of b1 and b2 shall be determined, if possible, by submitting each of the pure fibre constituents to the pre-treatment applied in the analysis. Pure fibres are those free from all non-fibrous material except that which they normally contain (either naturally or because of the manufacturing process), in the state (unbleached, bleached) in which they are found in the material to be analysed.

Where no clean separate constituent fibres used in the manufacture of the material to be analysed are available, average values of b1 and b2 as obtained from tests performed on clean fibres similar to those in the mixture under examination, shall be used.

If normal pre-treatment by extraction with light petroleum and water is applied, correction factors b1 and b2 may generally be ignored, except in the case of unbleached cotton, unbleached flax (or linen) and unbleached hemp, where the loss due to the pre-treatment is conventionally taken as 4 %, and in the case of polypropylene, where it is taken as 1 %.

In the case of other fibres, losses due to the pre-treatment are conventionally disregarded in calculations.

II.   Method of quantitative analysis by manual separation

II.1.   FIELD OF APPLICATION

This method is applicable to textile fibres of all types provided they do not form an intimate mixture and that it is possible to separate them by hand.

II.2.   PRINCIPLE

After identification of the constituents of the textile, the non-fibrous material is removed by suitable pre-treatment and then the fibres are separated by hand, dried and weighed in order to calculate the proportion of each fibre in the mixture.

II.3.   APPARATUS

• II.3.1. Weighing bottle or any other apparatus giving identical results.

• II.3.2. Desiccator containing self-indicating silica gel.

• II.3.3. Ventilated oven for drying specimens at 105 ± 3 °C.

• II.3.4. Analytical balance, accurate to 0,0002 g.

• II.3.5. Soxhlet extractor, or other apparatus giving an identical result.

• II.3.6. Needle.

• II.3.7. Twist tester or similar apparatus.

II.4.   REAGENTS